Interview With Helen James

Made lovingly by hand, her collection of floral headpieces and stunning Obi belts deserve to be cherished, says Kerrie Donnelly

"I spent my days wandering through the museum surrounded by beautiful textiles from China, Japan and across the East. It wasn’t your average Irish influence but it definitely seeped under my skin”, says designer Helen James, referring to her childhood growing up on the grounds of the enchanting Chester Beatty Library in Dublin. It wasn’t your everyday Irish upbringing. Not many people can say that they were raised on the grounds of both a famous library and the historical Dublin Castle, but Helen is an exception. Engrossed by the tapestries and fabrics housed in the library, they later proved inspirational to her when she began to establish herself as a designer.

After graduating from the National College of Art and Design in 1992 with a degree in textile design, the talented designer emigrated to New York where she worked for Donna Karan, Club Monaco and Katayone Adeli creating stunning prints and fabrics. With ten years of experience under her belt and an urge to see an end product to her own work, Helen returned to Ireland in 2002 and set up her own fashion label. “I was designing all these prints and fabrics that would then go off and be made into something that I had no control over. The first pieces I made were basic printed scarves which led on to belts and wraps. It was from the customer that I then started to develop clothing”, she explains. Using only the finest Irish linen for her pieces, her signature Obi belts are a collection of exquisite masterpieces that have become a foundation to her eponymous label. Recently, the Westmeath-based designer launched a line of vintage inspired floral headpieces that would rival any of fellow Irish designer Philip Treacy’s designs. She uses stiff petals and delicate beading to produce breathtakingly romantic pieces.

When asked what her thoughts are on Irish designers in the industry, she says : “I think because we are out on the edge of Europe on this island we sometimes can be a little cut off. Ireland should be proud of its creative talent and realize that we are one of its greatest assets.” Being one of the lucky few to show in Paris, she understands how hard it is for Ireland’s talented designers to make it overseas. “I feel we get no support from the Government. I have shown in Paris many times which is the only way a small label can access international buyers, but it is a huge outlay and not always possible.”

Citing Dries Van Noten and Rick Owens as two of her most admirable designers, Helen comments on Owens decision to banish his publicist. “In an industry where who wears what and which celebrity is snapped with this seasons handbag has such a huge impact on sales, I think that his was a brave move and one I really admire.” As much as she loves the latter two, Alber Elbaz, the mastermind behind Lanvin stands out as her firm favourite. “I love what Alber Elbaz has done at Lanvin. Taking a sinking ship and re-hoisting its silken sails to become one of the big players on the fashion map, but all the while making exquisite clothes that are feminine and beautiful.” He’s not the only one making exquisite clothes, Helen James is as talented and gifted as any other established designer out there.