Sheer Brilliance

Swathed in billowing chiffon, Tisci’s latest masterpiece was a collection of perfect tailoring and romantic ruffles.

Storming down the geometrical runway to the harsh sound of American pysco-goth band Salem, the models were an army of androgynous beauties. The understated set and white backdrop meant all eyes were on Riccardo Tisci’s latest stunning collection for Givenchy. They say less is more, and with no McQueen-like theatrics, it meant there was nothing distracting the star-studded crowd from this powerful collection.

Occupying the front row were a select few of Hollywood’s finest. Fresh from the success of his latest role in the box-office smash; The Social Network, was singer turned actor Justin Timberlake. Also spotted at the show were DJ Leigh Lezark, actress Liv Tyler and rock royalty Ronnie Wood and Courtney Love. Tisci’s former assistant and transgendered model, Lea T was one of the many models walking in the Parisian show alongside Jamie Bochert, Natasha Poly and Lily Aldrige’s younger sister, Ruby.

Sticking to his inherent gothic origins, Tisci’s collection was every inch the rock-chick’s dream, with leather waistcoats and metal buttons spelling out the sign of the cross. Using a completely monochrome palette, a much needed injection of colour was introduced in the form of this season’s favourite, leopard print. From a rather discreet graphic on tailored blazers, to the dramatically patterned evening gowns, the fierce cats of the Savanna were out on the prowl in Paris. With his innate talent for tailoring clearly evident, the contrast between structured pieces and floaty fabrics was striking. Sheer chiffon was draped over bootcut trousers and tight miniskirts, trailing behind like a beautiful train. Waistcoats were worn over jackets and as a punky decorative feature, silver zips snaked over every seam possible. One of the many stand-out pieces was a leopard print waistcoat with black panelling, worn over an oversized white blazer. Cut out vests, billowing capes and leather bomber jackets tied in with the Gothic feel of this collection.

Suddenly switching from the expected dark style, his softer side came through with romantic leather ruffles and tulle creeping up the necks of tops that were held together by only bondage-style leather harnesses at the back, while a soft blush pink was introduced; the only splash of colour aside from the graphic leopard prints.

Channelling Mia Farrow in Rosemary’s Baby, shiny cropped wigs and Heidi-style bunches loosely braided at the end provided a vivid contrast of masculine and feminine styles. Flawless nude make-up was accentuated with rich burgundy lips, while eyes were kept to a bare minimum. No outlandish hairstyles, no over the top features; just an understated simple look synonymous with the Givenchy brand. Accessories were scarce in this minimal collection, with only a few shoulder-strap handbags and thin leather belts completing the looks.

With his unique and captivating designs, a dramatic affair was always going to be expected and Riccardo certainly lived up to all expectations. The streamlined looks and wearable pieces make for a perfect collection which is sure to be a massive hit, only cementing him further in the industry as the true creative genius that he is.

Lacey Ladies

With an air of elegant etherealness that's unmatched in any other material and a renewed sense of family values, designers have breathed new life into the traditional white lace for Spring 2011.

Swanning down the aisle in her heavenly lace dress, most brides on their big day embody the innocence and beauty associated with white lace. From as early as the 12th century, lace has been used in all forms amongst hierarchy and royalty; a delicate fabric steeped in history. From beautiful brides to Italian Bella Donna’s in traditional Sicilian lace, this gentle fabric evokes an air of romance and purity whenever it’s worn. It’s no surprise then that Italian duo, Dolce & Gabanna have embraced their Mediterranean heritage for their 25th anniversary this season, with an almost all-white collection shrouded in beaded lace. Citing a ‘hope-chest’ – a collection of items a newlywed bride would pack for her new chapter in life as one of their inspirations, their stunning collection was a breath of fresh air after their heavily-ornate and dark Winter collection. Lace was everywhere: sexy twin-sets, angelic baby-doll dresses, lace and chiffon shifts, floor-skimming dresses and drawstring milkmaid tops were all covered in the timeless fabric. Dolce & Gabanna weren’t the only designers to embrace this angelic trend. Australian-based Collette Dinnigan created tiered dresses and high-waisted shorts, while Alberta Feretti sent an array of pieces down the runway, like her lace smock with crochet insert. Introducing lace into accessories was Italian shoe-designer, Cesare Paciotti. Covering the soles of his latest shoe-collection in a fine lace pattern, Paciotti has created another signature sole, rivaling Christian Louboutin’s synonymous pillar-box red trademark. Wah nails; the nail-art company currently painting the nails of celebrities and fashionistas alike, are one of the many nail-art specialists that use lace to create those miniature masterpieces; meticulously painting over the fine fabric.

Not only reserved for the fashion industry, lace has seeped into other creative fields. Spanning from the success of the 2009 novel, The Lace Reader by Brunonia Barry, Universal pictures have bought the rights to the haunting tale and plans for a movie are already in production. Set in Salem, Massachusetts and centered around a woman who can foretell the future from reading a piece of lace, this compelling story highlights the true age-old tradition of lace-reading. The Powerhouse Museum in Sydney Australia is currently the host of the International Lace Award. With participating artists from all around the world, a major exhibition of over 135 designs will be staged next July. The museum’s curator, Lindie Ward says, “The exhibition in 2011 will showcase works ranging from delicate filigree jewelry to grand steel designs. Textiles and metal will feature prominently, along with a great variety of extraordinary materials that promise a visual feast of contemporary lace works.”

Associated with an age when everything was less mass-produced and life was more relaxed, it’s no wonder that in this current economic situation, people are turning to traditional values as a form of escapism. Lace has been central to families for decades, from lace curtains in your Grandmother’s home, to the table runner in the dining room; it’s a classic material that never dates. But as far away as possible from your Granny’s net-curtains is pop genius, Lady Gaga. Rocking lace since she exploded onto the scene in 2008, she’s draped herself in everything, from lace masks to body-stockings to giant headpieces. Being one of the most influential artists in the industry today, anything she wears will instantly become a massive trend, even influencing some of the world’s top designers.

So what is it about lace that enthralls us and makes it still so popular after all these years? Mary O’Neill of Irish Carrickmacross Lace says, “ For me, the lace I make is extremely delicate and charming. It’s such a beautiful craft which produces an amazing fabric that enhances garments. It’s breathtaking beauty is timeless.”